Engine Stalled On Freeway. anybody have Igniter and ignition coil for sale?

[vteggie]

Update.
Engine stalled on a freeway last week.
I had to tow the car home.
I checked and found there is 12V going to the distributor and no spark.
Spark plug, spark plug cables, cap and rotor are in good shape.
Removed distributor and measure the winding of the ignition coil is a little bit off spec.
the ignition control module(Igniter)has four input.
12V battery power
signal from ECM
signal to Tach
power from ignition coil.

Since I have the JRSC BTM, the ECM has many wires that are cut and tapped into.
Can some loose wires in the ECM cause a bad signal to the igniter which in turn cause no spark.
The igniter is expensive from the dealer. I don't want to buy one just to test because there is no return for electrical part.
For about six months, my tach would fall rapidly from 2000 to 500 PRM if the car is in neutral and I let off the gas. The tach fall smoothly if the car is in gear and the gas is off. This symptom only happen once in awhile.
Does this have anything to do with the igniter have ECM input and the output goes to the tach.
I am suspecting the igniter is the culprit.
Can anyone give me some advise on what problem it may be?
Thanks,
Ben
PS. Anybody using modified ignition system and have their stock igniter and ignition module laying around that can get ride off. Let me know.


My car's engine stalled intermittently only during idle.
The car is a 95 JRSC 6PSI GSR, JR BTC, High Flow Fuel Pump.
It has 132K miles on it.
The Jackson Racing Supercharger was installed 4 years ago with 60K miles on it.
I have never have engine stalling problem until now.
The car does not burn any oil.
I don't know what is causing the engine stalled.
The engine never stall when the car is in gear and accelerating.
It only die when it is idling in traffic sometimes.
I now learned to drive the car with my right foot on the gas pedal constantly to keep the engine running and break with my left foot. But this is really annoying during heavy traffic in rush hour.
Whenever the engine stall, I can start up the car right away. That I can rule out electrical problem. I think it is fuel related.
Have you guys seen this before? or may know what is wrong with it.
thanks in advance for your help.
Ben

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ August 27, 2002 11:46 AM: Message edited by: vteggie ]</font>

[klintman]

can be many things , a sensor failing , wiring , vacum leak , et cetera . any engine trouble codes ?

[CROM]

This didn't happen to start after you put your BTC in did it?

After about a year of driving a wire came lose on one of my BTC connections and would kill my car. The wires all seemed to be touching too, I never isolated the problem down to one specific wire, but when I took the BTC out the car never had any problems again. But of course I re-installed the BTC this weekend, hehe...hope it works out this time.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ July 15, 2002 09:06 AM: Message edited by: CROM ]</font>

[BoostedEX]

This is a shot in the dark. Do you have a lightened flywheel?

[vteggie]

thanks for all the replies.
I installed the BTC couple years ago and had never have a problem.
I may check all the wire connection just to be sure. But if it is a loose wire connection. Howcome the engine only stalled at idle but not if I keep my foot on the gas pedal.
No. I do not have a lighten flywhee. It is still stock.
I have no engine code report by the ECU.
Sometimes when I rev the engine and let off the gas, the engine quickly to to 500 RPM and bounced back to 800RPM.
I also suspect it may be mechanical related due to some squeaky noise from the alternator and supercharger area.
Could it be the bearing of alternator, the two belt tensioner and the supercharger.
I think checking the alternator and the two tension is fairly easily because if they are not easy to turn, then the bearing are shot.
The supercharger is more difficulty to turn, so I don't know how to check for problem.
There are so many freaking variables that could cause this problem, it is very hard to find out the problem.
This is my daily driver car, I got to find out soon or else I am going to go nut with this one foot on gas one foot on brake driving habbit.

[JT98CivicEX]

Did it stall due to low rpm? You might want to check for a clog IAC valve screen located by the throttle body.

[SleepyGSR]

When idling, does your tach bounce between 200 - 800 rpm?

Will it stall if you don't keep your foot on the gas during idle?

During acceleration, does the car bog / lurch? Is acceleration smooth?

What does your A/F gauge read when the car is performing poorly or about to stall?

[vteggie]

JT98CivicEX,
How do you check for a clog IAC valve screen by the throttle body? If the screen is clog, can you just replace the screen or the whole IAC valve?

SleepyGSR,
It usually idle around 800RPM. It will occasionally bounce between 500-800 RPM and then stall.
As stated, the engine only stall intermittently.
I keep gas the engine will keep running, as soon as I release the gas, the engine stall. If I see engine stall and react fast enough to give it some gas it will start right up.
In general, the car accelerate pretty smooth.
The A/F meter bounce between lean and rich. I think it is normal for the ECU to constantly adjust for the optimal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Fuel pressure is at 52 PSI when the engine stall.
I have not change the fuel pressure setting for years and I have not noticed any change from the reading of the autometer full sweep fuel pressure gauge.
It always read 51 PSI at vaccum and 60 PSI at static.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ July 15, 2002 04:41 PM: Message edited by: vteggie ]</font>

[SleepyGSR]

My car is doing something very similar to what you're experiencing. My idle bounces between 200 - 800 rpm. The car will shudder near the bottom and come back up.

The ECU tries pretty hard to prevent the car from stalling. My car will pretty much stall if I push in the clutch from anything higher than 2000 rpm. I got around it by letting the car slow down to 1000 rpm before pushing in the clutch.

My A/F gauge mostly reads rich, but my fuel pressure is fine. 52 vacuum and 60 static. Acceleration for me is not smooth at all. It'll bog and lurch (this coincides with lean/rich readings). Mileage is terrible. O2 sensor readings are almost always at 0.04v or 0.96v. Injector pulse widths are between 2 and 3ms.

I'm trying to test with another O2 sensor, but I need to find an extension before I can do that.

[vteggie]

SleepyGSR,
My car still get around 26 MPG for combined city/highway driving.
So I don't think the O2 sensor is going bad yet.
I am going to spent some time this week to work on the car. Hopefully, I will find out what the culprit is.
later,
Ben